Day 13: Stage: 11, Bonnemazon, 25 km, ☀️🌦️, 20°

Tagging Along!

I spent last evening getting to know Elza and her step mother Martine over a hot hearty meal of wholesome vegetable soup and chocolate cake. It was simple fare, but hit the spot after a tough day in the rain. We came in and promptly got all our gear hung up and ourselves cleaned up. I arrived first and couldn’t figure out the shower as my French skills were inadequate to handle the instructions!🤨 I washed a bit in the sink and cleaned a few of my clothes, but it just wasn’t the same as that shower I was looking forward to.

I also made a rookie mistake when I left my mouth piece in my water system open. Before I knew it the bottom of my pack was soaked inside and a bit of my gear as well. Sheesh! There was lots of news paper around to help dry wet boots, and it served to help dry my pack overnight. No problem.

Our host came in and offered to put all our wet clothes through her drier. You can perhaps imagine how that offer was received. Lovely!

By way of background, Martine is Elsaz’s step mother who married her father when Elza was just one years old. Elza kept rolling her family history out in bits and pieces.🙂 Martine is the same age as I am. I met her husband, Elza’s father yesterday when he dropped off several items that had been forgotten. They live just 30 km away. Elsa’s father is an 80 year old trail runner. He has the number one ranking in all of France in his age group. That’s impressive! On the other hand, how many 80 year old runners could there be?😉 The point is, that he’s very fit and Elza and her brother are the same. Martine has hiked many areas of the Pyrenees and both have led groups through the mountains as well. The reason for establishing their hiking credentials will soon become apparent.

There wasn’t going to be a particularly long walk today, but there were going to be some pretty solid climbs. We decided not to rush in the morning, and after breakfast, we got underway just after 7:30. The usual breakfast with tea was enjoyed as usual.😋

When we were all ready to go it sort of was assumed that I was joining the ladies. I didn’t want to be a third wheel, but I’m glad I went with them. They are two very strong climbers. Born and raised in the Pyrenees and spending their lives farming, hiking and working in this very hilly country. They have developed their fitness and lung capacity just by living and working here. 

I did feel a little like a third wheel as we climb those hills. Pretty steep climbs and they motored right up them without stopping. I had to work hard to stay with them.😬 I did it, but it was like chasing two mountain goats!🤣 And I mean that with huge respect!

Our host Ronald has just joined us as I write this and he has brought me a refreshment. All the conversation is in French and I’m working hard to pull as much out of my brain as I can. I am learning, but it’s slow.

Back to the day as they leave my French skills well behind.

There are some beautiful old houses today.

Walking with Elza and Martine is like being on a bit of a nature walk. They would say, taste this, or smell this! Combined with a little bit of history of the area and their local knowledge and information made for a fascinating day. It is really quite wonderful and an opportunity I didn’t want to pass up. A lucky encounter and I’ve been invited to walk with them again. Two even higher climbs!🥳

They are no nonsense walkers. Meaning that they are a bit like me I suppose, through walkers with very few stops. Usually to put on or take off rain gear, which we had to do once today and fortunately to take a few photos. I would stop for photos and then have to work to rejoin them. But it was fun and very satisfying!

We did pass through several pleasant villages.

We arrived at our destination at Ronald’s mason. He is an interesting fellow who was a wine merchant and takes the overflow walkers. There are three beds and we are staying in a most interesting accommodation built in an ancient attic above the car park area.

Ronald has built the place from things that he’s found for free. He is basically recycling.

Tomorrow is another good hike. Hopefully the weather will be ok, but the report is for a less quality day than today. tomorrow I’ve booked a small apartment and I’m looking forward to cleaning my clothes and having a bit of space for one night. That said, the company has been great!

Bon Chemin!

Geoff🍻🙂

(760 m vertical, 2,500’)