Day 3: Stage 1; Arzens, 22 km, 🌤️ 💨, 24°🙂

Today’s The Day, Finally!

Awake early this morning. Jet lag? What’s that? Too excited to dwell on my jet lag. A quick breakfast and the final things put into my pack, and I was off to the train station.

Many of the older train stations in Europe retain their architectural charm. This one has.

I get on board the train and as it pulls out I find myself facing the wrong way, yet again! As often as I’ve travelled through Europe you’d think that by now I’d figure this out.😂 I seem to get it right about half the time! No worries, I’m on the right train just facing backwards for the next hour.🙄 I love riding these trains!

My plan is to walk across Carcassonne to Saint Michael of Carcassonne Cathedral in the hopes of getting a stamp in my credential, but it doesn’t open until 10:00 so I might bypass and walk directly out of town. I’ll figure that out when I arrive…

After arriving I did walk across town to the cathedral to find it closed. I decided that as I was in no hurry and that I could wait. So I went in search of a second breakfast!

The woman running the café told me that she and her husband lived in Ottawa for seven years and had permanent residency status. While they were there one of their sons was born, but they returned to Carcassonne because they had an opportunity to take over a restaurant located in the walled fortress above the town site. Unfortunately, they opened just at the beginning of Covid, which made operating in a tourism oriented area something of a challenge. They somehow managed to survive, but recently sold that operation and opened this more easily managed café. Fewer hours, less stress.

As I passed through the central part of town I discover the markets were set up everywhere because of course it’s Saturday morning.&8

Time finally to visit the cathedral. I still had 20 kms to walk and it’s now past 10:00.

The cathedral is Romanesque and looks pretty dull from the outside. However, on the inside, it’s anything but dull. Along each side are beautiful rose windows.

I find a lovely, smiling lady who is opening the church and lighting all the candles. I asked her if she has a timber for my credential? She gives me the nicest smile and takes me to a back room where their stamp is kept. I thank her for her trouble, and after admiring the rose windows yet again, I take my leave and begin looking for the way out of town 

I find the very old and tiny chapel at the south end of the Roman bridge that AM and I first discovered in 2018. It’s quite lovely inside and I have some excellent photos at home, but on this day it’s closed.

At the front I again locate the way markers for the GR 78. Who knew that I would one day return to this exact spot to begin walking this route?

I didn’t visit the old fortress on this trip, having seen it twice before. However, the following pictures are from my 2018 visit. It really is quite an outstanding, well preserved mediaeval double walled fortress. Well worth the time to visit if you happen to be in this area.

With all the preliminary activities behind me, I finally started walking at just before 10:30. I think this is probably the latest I’ve ever gone out on a single stage.😬

It takes a while to leave town. The chemin takes me upstream along a paved walking/cycling trail. It’s really nice, and I’m already relaxing and settling into my rhythm.

I come upon a bicycle park for young people and see kids the same age as Caitlin‘s pair zipping over the little hills with their parents carefully watching them. This could just about be anywhere in the developed world.

I finally get out of the city and it’s supporting suburbs and I begin to see the vineyards. I’m not very far from the Mediterranean and well south in France. I expect the vineyards to begin to disappear in the next few days as I get further away from the Mediterranean’s influence and into somewhat higher elevations.

I soon arrive at Grebbes Lac which I follow most of the way around its perimeter. There are big fish in here because I saw a good size one jump!

Parts of the walk today were just beautiful. Narrow trails through fields and underneath beautiful trees. A walker’s delight!

Tonight I’m staying at a very nice pilgrim gite. It sleeps 14 and has four single beds. I chose one of the bunk beds because it has a light and a place to plug in for electricity. It has a full kitchen and even food for those who arrive on a Sunday when the little grocery store is closed. You must have a pilgrim credential in order to stay here and it’s on a donation basis. The shower was excellent and there is even a washer and dryer!  Best of all, I have the place entirely to myself. It would be nice to have some company, but there will be no one else snoring tonight except me!😂

It’s now time to check out the pizza place and the grocery store before making a decision about eating out, or eating in. These are very difficult decisions to make!🤣

This walk is officially underway! It’s always a good omen to start in the sunshine! Hoping for more of the same tomorrow.

Bon Chemin!

Geoff🍻