Day 22: Chiang Mai, Toasty, 33°

A Unique Experience

Last night we returned to Wat Chedi Luang, the temple complex with the crumbling elephant stupa, to witness the Makha Butcha full moon celebrations. For us it was of course a completely unique experience. Before leaving home, we knew that we would be in Chiang Mai for the Buddhist lunar celebration and had read that this was the best place to be in Northern Thailand on the day. We deliberately had no prior knowledge of what the celebrations entailed, deciding that it would be a more enjoyable experience to find out when we arrived. Good decision!

We arrived at twilight around 18:30 and overheard a security person tell someone that things would get underway after 19:00. There were lots of people on site, many dressed in white, just as the Henro in Japan do when walking the 88 Temple route on Shikoku Island. Similarities for sure, but so many differences.

We decided to circle the old temple and to look for some of the places we’d seen that morning. I always find that walking at night is pretty special with the lights, and there is usually a completely different vib.

It continued to darken, and we noted that further north the twilight lasts longer than it did in the south.

The full moon began to rise above the Wat and monks started to show up, many hurrying to the Wat where the indoor ceremony was underway. Unfortunately Apple phones generally take poor lunar photos. Oh well. In one area food was being given way to anyone who asked.

We took some time to sit on a bench and watch the numbers of people walking by increase considerably, all walking in the same direction.

And then the numbers of people walking dropped off considerably and there was an air of anticipation. Very suddenly the monks were coming on in mass towards where we were sitting. It happened so quickly!

Following the monks came a huge procession of the many people who were there to participate.

It was a very calm and spiritual moment, and we simply looked at each other, said a couple of words and spontaneously joined in. It reminded us of our walk dedicated to world peace on Shikoku. With our world again seemingly so close to the edge, we simply felt a powerful desire to participate.

Everyone led by the monks walked three full circuits around the old stupa.

People were very calm, but I felt the emotions, much like often happens when I’m walking on a Camino. I think AM was feeling it as well.

Again many candles were being lit at the bottom of the central stairs.

We briefly stopped in the main temple.

We left shortly afterwards and passed by the first temple we’d visited that day.

It was now about 20:30 and we needed to find our dinner! We finally found a tiny place with locals playing chess which felt comfortable.

We ordered a plate of veggie spring rolls, pork sauté and pineapple, raisin and chicken fried rice. Of course because of the nature of the special day we could not have a beer though we saw a few people having one. We later found the penalty if caught serving alcohol was 6 years in jail plus a huge fine. This place was clearly taking a risk!

Over dinner we discussed the evening and our thoughts about what happened and decided we would carry this experience a very long time.

What Did We Get Up To Today? Well…

…we of course continued walking the old town! We first set off to walk a part of the old moat and spotted some sections of the old walk.

We also learned that Buddhist monks can get married and have children.

But of course they can, I just remembered having witnessed this very thing in Japan.

We also learned that Valentine’s Day is a thing in Thailand. Duh, of course it would be.🙄 I later asked our pretty hotel receptionist about it and she got quite excited and told us that she planned to be out for dinner with her valentine tomorrow night! We too have Valentines plans for tomorrow, but you will have to wait until then to find out about them.

We walked on to see Wat Loh Molee, a smaller, but very pleasant complex.

It was thankfully very quiet tourist wise when we arrived.

It’s a beautiful old wooden building with a very calming and comfortable feel.

Beautiful ceilings. Always remember to look up and behind you!

This was AM’s favourite Wat.

Outside it was pretty enjoyable as well.

And then it was time to walk on and poke around town a bit more.

It was getting hotter, so time to stop for tea at our new favourite place!

I made the mistake of putting the honey comb in my mouth and chewing on it. I then spent the next two hours pulling bits of bees wax out of my mouth! I forgot about the wax part.

Refreshed, we walked on to yet another smaller Wat. Wat Chiang Man.

There we found a class from the local art school painting, and I thought this young woman was the most talented in the group. A very nice hand and eye.

There were two very different temples on site. One the Thai classic.

And the other seemed more Indian in nature.

Even the wall mosaics in the second temple were different.

We wondered and enjoyed other sites until it was time to find some lunch. The problem was where? We are trying as many different flavours as possible.

We looked into a number of places that all appeared very basic, but all serving lots of local folks. This was the key bit of information.

We selected this place, or perhaps the owner of this place selected us? What ever it was, we ordered noodle soups. I had the pork vegetable Tom Kha which is particularly spicy 🌶️ and very hot!

AM enjoyed the duck noodle soup which was very tasty and without any heat. AM does not like spicy food!

I tried to keep my mouth cool with a Thai ice tea. So good!

Out late lunch completed we walked the street a bit in search of a store we found yesterday so that I could buy a couple of things that had interested me. Then back to our hotel for some down time, and I’m just about finished writing this post.

A late lunch means a light dinner. We have a very early start in the morning with a fun adventure planned. That will be the subject of my post tomorrow. Here it will be Valentine’s Day.

Cheers for now!🐘🌶️🌞🌴

Geoff