Day 4: Stage 2: Tannay

20 kms, Cloud, 15°

Music For The Soul…

Last night I was one of 14 taking part in a communal meal, and we were all surprised there were so many. The day before there had only been six. I sat with women from England, Holland and Belgium. They could all speak English which made for a better experience (for me). With the exception of Mark, a German pilgrim, the rest were French. The Dutch woman was complaining about the hills. I told her that she could expect many more between here and Santiago! Dinner started late and went on for a couple of hours. After we had all pitched in to clean up it was time for bed with lockdown and lights out at 10:00.

Last night just before bed, Mark told me that I should plan to attend 8 am pilgrim morning mass in the basilica. He had finished walking here last year and he told me that I wouldn’t be disappointed. He was right. I wasn’t. Mass was sung with nuns all in white on the right and the priests also in white on the left all turned away from us. The acoustics in the basilica are extraordinary and their voices were lovely with beautiful harmonies. Clearly this wasn’t their first rodeo! After they finished we pilgrims were invited up to the alter where a blessing was bestowed and then we were each greeted by the senior priest. While at the alter we were again treated to another beautiful harmony apparently special to this occasion, and then sent on our way to begin our journey.

In my experience this seems to be something particular to the French churches at the beginning of the major chemin. I experienced another such mass in Le Puy-en-Velay in 2015, and while special, I thought this was better. I wanted to record the music, but that didn’t quite feel right. I guess I’ll just have to carry the memory with me.

Before the mass we all joined up again for a typical French breakfast of bread, jam and a bowl of tea or coffee. Not the best to walk on, but I had some cheese in my pack for later.

I managed to figure out that most of the folks are following the southeast variant via Nevers for the nature. I and two others are walking the Bourges variant which is considered more culturally oriented. The others all live here of course, and like most Europeans, they are definitely walking for the nature. Besides, they all agreed that there are very few bed options on the Bourges variant which basically made their decision easier. This wasn’t news to me. It will be a real challenge to find a bed. I had to walk 4 kms off the route today to find a bed, but I’ll come to that shortly.

I walked down through town with Mark, and where the route splits we said goodbye. I thought we might meet again when the two variants rejoin in 8 stages, but he told me that by then I would be far ahead as he was going out slowly to build up his endurance. As I will be meeting Annemarie in 3 weeks and beds are well spaced, I don’t have the same option.

So I was off and almost immediately into a forest where I would remain for over two hours.

Initially I was missing the companionship and easy banter with the group, but eventually I again began to enjoy the bird song and the quiet solitude of the forest. It was really beautiful!

It was also extremely muddy and slippery!

In order to make reasonably decent time I had to really focus on the path, and I eventually popped out of the forest.

Of course because it was spring and has been quite wet here I was mentally prepared for these conditions. It’s just a part of the experience.

I passed through a small village on a road and thought that now I could make up some time. Nope. On to the farming tracts and across the fields.

Unfortunately the mud was even worse. That thick type of mud that sticks to the boots and won’t easily come off.

But the scenery was beautiful! Lovely rolling hills with farms and animals which means that I have lots of videos to send home to my very young grandchildren! 😊

Eventually the mud finally came to an end, but not before I was left with boots caked in the stuff. Happily they no longer have that new look. 😎

As I said earlier I was forced to leave the main route to find a bed. I saw that there was a canal running through the valley before the town, and knowing that there is always a small tow road running along the side of most French canals, I mapped out a route to Tannay.

Who doesn’t like to walk alongside a canal?

It turns out there was a very cool bridge crossing the canal.

Further along there was, as you might expect, a lock. This really was a great walk!

If yesterday was much like walking in Galicia, today felt more like walking in England.

Here I found the road to Tannay…

It was uphill all the way in, but I knew that I’d soon have a nice shower and a simple room to myself!

My pilgrim accommodation for tonight. It’s an old coach house and the present owner told me that it’s 350 years old! A simple room and I’m hosted by a lovely elderly lady who promised me dinner at 7:30. That’s still two and a half hours ahead of me, and I’m already looking forward to it!😬 Late dining in France sucks!

Rain is forecast for tonight and tomorrow so a distinct possibility of wet gear tomorrow. Hopefully I won’t be on the trails as much tomorrow. Definitely prefer road walking in the rain! I guess I’d better look at my app to see what the route looks like tomorrow.

Bon chemin!

Geoff 🍷☔️