We woke this morning to cloudy skies! I told them to go away, but they didn’t listen. I don’t know whether it was the cloudy skies or the jet lag, but we were both a little groggy this morning. We performed the required housekeeping duties at the Airbnb, which oddly included changing the linen on the beds. I don’t think I’ve ever been requested to do this in an accommodation before. However, there was no cleaning fee so we decided to do as asked. We then went up to town to have a quick breakfast before gathering our gear and heading for the train station. Today was our exciting ride northeast across the Corsican mountain ranges!
We were underway just after 10:30 and on our way down to the train station for the 11:05 departure. We both agreed that we weren’t going to miss the 80 steps up and 80 steps down to/from the apartment. All good exercise, but 4 to 6 times a day was getting a bit much!🫤
We did a little reading about the train line before leaving home and were intrigued. We decided not to rent a car in Ajaccio, but to wait until arriving in Bestia which would also give us the opportunity to see the city, apparently the second largest on the island.
The Corsican train line is affectionately referred to as the “shaker”. Construction began in the 1880s and took 22 years to complete with the sweat of 22,000 labourers! Everything was hand laid and this inconsistency contributed to the wobbling motion of the train. The train line allowed previous three day journeys from small villages in the mountains to be reduced to just one day. It was apparently also the main avenue of exit for thousands of migrants to the two principal port cities where they left Corsica to far away lands rarely returning. About 15 years ago there was a major upgrade to the system with about half the line replaced and new carriages introduced. I’ve read that this was very controversial and there was major pushback regarding these changes. I guess the old adage, better the devil you know applied here! If it makes anyone here feel any better, our bodies appreciated the change.
The changes went ahead, and while the train today isn’t quite as wobbly as I gather it was in the past, it’s still is a pretty bumpy ride. In spite of all the changes the route continues to transit some amazing mountain scenery. I understand that it’s considered to be one of the top 10 train ride experiences in the EU. We liked it😊
We discovered school kids were using the trains to get back-and-forth from home to Ajaccio. The kids seem to be heading home for the day at 11 o’clock, and we noticed them leaving school around that time in Ajaccio. I wonder what time they start?
I apologize for the quality of many of the photographs. At times it was raining and of course the windows weren’t very clean. I’m not complaining, simply informing.
There are a surprising number of stops across the island. I’m guessing at least 18, but probably more. Some of the stations are obviously newer, but many of the older buildings are still in place and in use. It’s all quaint and very interesting.
We seemed to avoid most of the rain, but we could see it in the distance much of the time. It was kind of spotty where we were.
We passed through around 3 dozen tunnels.
Amongst hikers Corsica is well known for the GR 20, long considered one of the more difficult walking routes in the EU. While not particularly long, it’s tough and there are parts that would challenge most people. Lots of folks abandon the walk each year. My friend John T crossed the route several years ago, no small feat! We saw hikers getting on and off the train at several points, and I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t experience a few pangs of envy!😬 That said, I’ve been fortunate to have more than my share of hiking and walking adventures. So no regrets! At least I’m carrying my original hiking pack, a Gregory Z40. Great pack and perfect for travel.
We eventually passed through Corte with its historic centre on a hill (where else). Most day trippers got off here and the train was much quieter after that. Corte has traditionally been the central Corsican stronghold on the island.
We are staying in a modest little hotel tonight and plan to stay in Bastia tomorrow as well. This will allow us to wander around what we understand is a beautiful city. Hopefully it will be a sunny day tomorrow, though it’s been warm enough today. At this time of year in Corsica cloud doesn’t usually mean cold🙂
Distance Walker - Wandering & Wondering! 